April 8th, Day 4, or Scariest Train Ride Ever. So, I live in New York. I ride the subway multiple times a day and have encountered many an interesting character. But this day, the day we took the train from Rome to Chiusi to meet up with Peggy, I've never been more scared for my life. I've had a few panic attacks in my day, but this was flight or fight, animal instincts at it's best.
We got up early to get to the station, had another lovely breakfast, and headed around the corner. Being unfamiliar with the Italian train system we gave ourselves a good cushion for getting tickets and onto the trains. At the automatic ticket booths we got a little unsolicited help from a gypsy. I knew from the get go- no baggage, missing teeth, pretty pushy- but Mom seemed a little oblivious. She even took her card out of Mom's hand (!!!) to swipe it in the machine. We did give her a few Euros, and went along. The train times were different than what we'd seen online so we rushed over and boarded.
When we got to our assigned car an attendant helped me fix the handle of my suitcase in the rail outside the car, kinda sketch, and then showed us where we were to be seated. Now, this may come out sounding wrong, so bear with me. The train seating is situated on the left side in two rows of three seats facing one another. Think Harry Potter. Mom was by the door and I was by the window. The other four seats were occupied by a band of small, Middle Eastern men who weren't speaking Italian. Call me paranoid, call me a stupid American, but I swear they were gangsters. I don't want to seem prejudice, but I had a terrible gut feeling, the way they scanned our bodies, our luggage, Mom's rings... I was very uncomfortable. Mom switched seats so we were together, but being far from the door made me extremely nervous. My heart was pounding the entire hour and a half, and I barely glimpsed the scenery. I tried to give several "don't mess with me" looks to the men, but I felt an eminent jump on us if we weren't careful. At our stop in Chiusi I stood up quickly, ushered Mom out of the car, and grabbed her bag above us. Peggy, John, and Mom all thought I was a little more nervous than necessary, but I felt a certain instinct I would have to protect my gimp mother (sorry Pammy!! It's all out of love) so I wasn't going down without a fight. Luckily, nothing actually happened.
Onto better news! Great Aunt Peggy and Uncle John! They were at the station waiting for us with their tiny French car and big hugs. We went off to Montepulciano, a little city on a very steep hill to wander, shop, and have lunch.
The city square. It's pretty devoid of modern signage, so it's used for period film shoots quite often. I think they said the Volturi sequences from Twilight were shot there.
Mom and me on with the countryside in the background. All around the edge of the city there are panoramic viewing areas. So beautiful. Also some cypresses in the background, we were all obsessed. Remember that shot in Gladiator where the road is lined in them? It's everywhere.
It's a windy day! View from the top at Montepulciano, the name sake of my current red wine of choice.
Sitting on the wall, don't fall!
Beautiful view. So many places in Tuscany are like this, the city situated on top of the hill, the green farms and vineyards below. It's like being transported back in time.
This kitty was so cute sitting in her window. When I got closer she pressed her body against the bars, begging to be pet.
I am in love with old world, stone buildings. It just screams stories, history, earth touched by people from so long ago. I have lots of picture like this from the trip, particularly of windows.
This unicorn on our lunch menu made me think of all my boys in NY. So random.
After exploring we headed back to Peggy and John's house, which was a little more remote than we'd imagined. No main roads out here, so lots of winding and gravel. We took naps, had an amazing dinner of veal gnocchi, veggies, and blood oranges with mascarpone cream a la the amazing chef Peggy Heywood. Her meals never cease to inspire and amaze me. I took a bath in our long skinny tub, and off to sleep.
April 9th, Day 5: Firenze! We got up early to head into the city, about 45 minutes away. Not many pictures this day because we were in museums quite a bit. First off was the Bargello, full of beautiful sculpture, medieval art (much older than most famous Renaissance Italian stuff), and even the death mask of Dante.
On Peggy and John's porch, ready to head off to Florence! I also bought this dress in Italian anticipation...
The lovely ladies in their favorite state, studying the map together. I jest, but it was cute.
The majestic duomo. We didn't make it inside because the line was horrendous both times we attempted joining. It is enormous and ornate, a true beauty from the outside, so that's where we admired her.
After lunch we headed to the Uffizi where we had scheduled a private tour. Somehow our guide had left us- you'd think 3 of the 5 people missing they might have waited- so we found ourselves somewhat off put and unsure of how to conquer this museum. It's deceptively small though, and with the help of Peggy's iPad, I Googled the 'Top 5 Uffizi Masterpieces', and gave Peg and Mom our own tour. It all turned out all right; we saw Botticelli, da Vinci, Raphael, the whole gang.
View of the Ponte Vecchio from the Uffizi gallery. It's a medieval stone bridge over the Arno River that is filled with shops, which was once common.
Italian souvenirs were obviously on our minds the whole time, the country being famous for their food, wine, leather, fashion, art, the list goes on, it was hard to decide which direction to take. There is a big street market in Florence we wandered for hours, much to my exhilaration and Peggy and Mom's exhaustion. We left with soccer shirts for the boys, oils for my brother in law Chris and Grandpa (our family chefs), leather purses for my sisters, some Vin Santo for my friends Sam and Jason, among other treats.
The beautiful leather weekend case I got for myself. I spotted it several times in the days preceding and realized this was what I really wanted, so I bargained and got a good deal at one stand. I've never been much of a purse collector but this size bag will serve me well.
Dinner was smaller that day, stew and crackers, strawberries and cream. I tried some hazelnut grappa Peggy and John are given monthly at their farm house (what sweet digs!). Very interesting, but I'd say I prefer the clear stuff. Off to bed early; our bed time was about 10pm most nights, which is awfully early for me. I recall Peggy noting on this day, "Caroline really does perk up at night. What an owl!"
April 10th, Day 6: Sunday at the Castle and Monastery. We had "something sweet" for breakfast- beautiful pastries I've never seen stateside- and headed off to the Castle Broglio.
The beautiful and enormous fortress, again, on a hill. My first castle, I was amazed at the walls of protection surrounding the building itself. They must've been 50 feet high, 10 feet thick.
Just hanging out in my new backyard. Actually, the Ricasoli family has lived there for 800 years. But I could marry in right? :)
Thanks, Hipstamatic. Another garden shot. I really love this filter.
The castle is famous for it's Chianti. Here's a view of their vineyards from the castle wall.
Mom and I with a little lemon tree in the courtyard. They had several fruit trees and an herb garden.
A rather English looking garden between the castle and the vineyard.
Mom and Peggy, walking along the castle wall. I directed this shot... "Keep walking, but turn just your heads back...yes, yes!" They thought I was silly. :)
After the castle we went to a very specific restaurant Peggy had found that served Florentine steak, which can only be ordered by the kilo. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is a T-bone or Porter house, thick cut of beef that is very rare. We were all jazzed about it, but they were sold out!! We order too much food anyway- Mom and I shared a grand tagliata, very much like a steak fajita plate but with veal, tomato, and arugula - and our waiter insisted we shoot grappa with him...at 2:30pm.
Thoroughly stuffed and bathing in sunshine, we headed to the Monte Oliveto Maggiore, or the Mount Olive Monastery. Another first for me, we had to park nearly half a mile away from the abbey and then walk up hill to get there. Talk about remote! The forest was beautiful, and the sidewalks were on an old rain drainage system, so it was an interesting walk. Inside the abbey's courtyard is the story of the monastery's foundation in frescoed walls. It's amazing how well preserved they are, being exposed to light and air, and so beautiful. The museum was also chalk full of Madonna and child's, Annunciations, all the saints. Something I became fixated on this week was all the saint's relics in every church, every museum. Not being Catholic, I had no idea the importance and celebrity these bit of bone, blood, hair, cloth. In Sienna (next episode) there was a little arc with almost an entire skeleton!
Beautiful old, OLD books in the library. It was connected to the apothecary, which looked a bit like a medieval torture room. A reminder of of how grateful I am for modern medicine.
The abbey at vespers. The abbey closes to the public about 30 minutes before vespers, the evening prayers. The monks chanted in Italian as the light in the chapel slowly grew.
That's all for today ladies and gents! Next and last Italian episode is days 7, 8, and 9: Siena, San Gimignano, and departure. Thanks again for reading, I hope you enjoy :)
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